Jacarandas near the Casa Rosada

As November’s sunlight filters through the remaining golds, browns and reds of autumn leaves falling in Chicago, it is spring in Buenos Aires, and the lush, purple jacaranda trees are in full bloom.  I love seeing them, and the other flowering trees.  The brilliant Jacaranda trees line many avenues such as Avenida Santa Fe pictured below, and alongside the famous Casa Rosada.

Avenida Santa Fe

The trumpet-shaped flowers retain their vibrant color even as they fall and carpet  the sidewalks all month long.  Alongside the small yellow flowers of the Fica trees and the pink blossoms of the Palos  Borachos trees (literally the “drunken sticks” because of their shapes), the jacarandas create a trio of
springtime colors!

Thanks to my dear friend Cheryl in CA, I learned about a wonderful recent Wall Street Journal article by Sarah Gilbert, Journal
Concierge, an insider’s guide to Buenos Aires. 
Read it here:

Gilbert shares my fascination and love of the city, its seductiveness and rich heritage. In her article, four well-known people with Argentine connections (actor Robert Duvall, married to the Argentine actress Luciana Pedraza; Narda Lepes, a  local chef, author and TV personality; Gustavo Santaolalla, Academy Award-winning composer/musician born in Buenos Aires; and pop artist Marta  Minujín) tell us what they love about BA.  After reading about their  favorite places and things, I began creating my own favorites list.

Dancers at Cafe Tortoni

Best meat meal: by far is La Cabrera in the Palermo neighborhood, where huge portions of Argentina’s best grass-fed, hormone-free beef (definitely share a meat entree) is served to you accompanied  by 6-8 small dishes filled with delicious vegetable sides such as baked garlic,
zucchini, sauteed onions, baked apples, creamed spinach. Their Argentine wine  selection compliments any meal. So popular, there is a second restaurant, La Cabrera Norte, one block away.
Evening reservations are a must.

Cafe favorites: The city has many bars and cafes throughout the various neighborhoods, some selling coffee and others offering an extensive menu. Two “Bares Tradicionales de Buenos Aires,” located in the neighborhood of Boedo, which I can’t get enough of are Cafe
and Bar de Cao.

The Cao Brothers make a delicious Spanish tortilla (potato and egg omelet) among their many offerings, and the cheeses/olives/meat plates at both cafes complement their cozy, local ambience.  Off the tourist path.
On the streets:  Looking for me on a Sunday afternoon in Buenos Aires?  You’re sure to find me at one of the outdoor ferias, the arts and crafts markets, especially the one held in the Recoleta barrio, at Plaza Francia, close to the famous Recoleta cemetery and Buenos Aires Diseño, a design shopping mall.  A close second is the ever-growing antiquest fair and artesans market held every Sunday in the San Telmo neighborhood.

Watching tango:  On the streets of the La Boca neighborhood,
or at local milongas (dance halls) including Torquato Tasso and Confiteria
, where you can also take a dance lesson.  For an evening of tango music and dance, I
like the intimacy of the small salon at the rear of Café Tortoni, or the continuous entertainment at Bar Sur.


Filed under Visiting Mendoza

5 responses to “November

  1. fadwa

    Demetria introduced me to these favorite places in BA..delicious food and great entertainment.

  2. Gri

    I love seeing my city through Demetria´s loving eyes! Looking forward to your annual visit.Hug Gri

  3. Pingback: Turning 25 in Buenos Aires | See Buenos Aires

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